Looking for a great cordless impact wrench? Here I will soon be groing through 3 great choices. The Hitachi WR18DL, the DeWALT DW059K-2 and the Milwaukee 2662-22. I'm unsure what your budget it for buying a new impact wrench, but I really do wish to caution you that with cordless impact wrenches, you obtain everything you buy! If you buy a great one from the start, it'll be with you for a long time, the place where a cheap one will rapidly maintain the trash!
The very first, and most expensive cordless impact wrench is the Hitachi WR18DL at $259.99. The conventional specs from the manufacturer are:
- 1/2" drive
- 1,950 in-lb torque (or 162.5 ft-lb)
- 2,600 RPM without load
- 3.5 lbs (shipping weight is 12.2 lbs with wrench, 2 batteries, charger and carrying case)
- Hitachi HXP lithium ion batteries
This is a pretty lightweight impact wrench, 3 lbs and 4 lbs lighter compared to other wrenches that have been tested.
With having said that, it's also got minimal level of torque, and it struggled a little with the lug nuts on a friend's F-150 (I did see analysis someone saying that on a completely charged battery they got 710 in-lbs, or 59 ft-lbs).
It comes with a funny little work light, but it actually works surprisingly well if you find yourself employed in a black place!
The lithium ion battery is very good too.
Overall this is a good quality, light cordless impact wrench, and so long as you don't have to torque down anything a lot more than 80-100 ft-lbs, this is actually the torque wrench for your smaller tasks.
The next impact wrench is the DeWALT DW059K-2, opting for $232.25. Here are the specs:
- 1/2" drive
- 3,600 in-lb torque (300 ft-lb)
- 1,650 RPM without load
- 7.55 lbs (15.4 lbs shipping weight with wrench, 2 batteries, charger and carrying case)
This wrench is an intensify in power (300 ft-lbs), and has plenty of for taking care of cars and light trucks.
The battery life is great, and can last a complete weekend out at the track, but they're Ni-Cad batteries (which accounts for this being the heaviest impact wrench in this article)
This is a quality wrench. The downsides worth mentioning are that there's no variable torque, no electric brake, and it's a little heavy, but there's no mistaking the fact this is a well built, quality tool.
The last impact wrench is the 2662-22 from Milwaukee, opting for $320.00. Here are the specs:
- 1/2" drive
- 450 ft-lb torque
- 1,900 RPM without load
- 6.7 lbs (shipping weight is 13.9 lbs with wrench, 2 batteries, charger and carrying case)
One of many things that accompany this wrench is really a "pin retent", that is more or less a rounded pin that's there to keep your sockets from falling off. It works, and it keeps your sockets on there, but it's a small pain when you have to alter sockets frequently.
The 450 ft-lbs of torque spec seems reliable, and it's taken off bolts that have been tightened down seriously to 330 ft-lbs and 375 ft-lbs.
The lithium ion battery held its charge, and there's variable speed/torque that is nice.
Here is the high power wrench of the bunch.
Overall, the most crucial thing about buying an impact wrench is obtaining the torque you need. If you're looking for a great wrench for anyone smaller tasks, the Hitachi WR18DL is a good choice. If you'll need a lot of torque, the 2662-22 from Milwaukee would be a great addition. And if you're trying to find mid range power, with enough to work with the cars however, not overkill, DeWALT's DW059K-2 is a good choice, that'll last you a long time.
DIY Car Repair - Understanding Torque Values
In some cases when torquing a fastener, whether it's a fan or even a bolt, it is vital to attain a level of accuracy. If you should be attempting to repair your vehicle yourself there are some basic techniques that can save you both time and, in the future, money. By understanding and applying some basic car repair techniques the average person is going to increase their chance at performing a successful car repair.
Car repair tools are something to consider - they could either provide an answer or, if used improperly, or in the case of Torque related tools, or even used at all, could make the car problem worse. May very well not realize it but you may already own torque related tools. Maybe you have wondered why the 10mm wrench is shorter than the usual 14mm wrench? Why does the ¼" drive ratchet typically just have sockets as much as about 15mm? There is a good reason for both. If you utilize a 10mm wrench to tighten down a 10mm fastener, and aren't over "torquing", you are likely to get the proper torque. In the event that you used a wrench that is doubly long to do the same your likelihood of over torquing, breaking or compromising the fastener are vastly increased. Using a ¼" drive ratchet to tighten a 10mm fastener is significantly safer than using a ½" drive ratchet to tighten the same 10mm fastener. This is a simple matter of understanding the forces of leverage and torque, the longer the tool the more leverage you obtain and the easier the torque is applied. As a guideline, use a ¼" drive ratchet to tighten fasters if the bits are available. Most of the time there is no reason to use a larger ratchet to tighten the fasteners below 15mm.
There is another car repair tool that may get you the proper torque every time; provided the tool works properly. It's the torque wrench. What does a mechanic have that you don't? Well, for the absolute most part, experience. Gaining a sense for how tight a bolt must be is the first faltering step to getting the proper torque. That is simple to practice, and it's easily gauged with a torque wrench. There are certain instances that using a torque wrench is incredibly important. Rotating parts is one of them. You don't want a spinning part to loosen the nuts or bolts that hold it in place. So torque your axle nuts and flywheel bolts. Any time there is a gasket or a fan or bolt that is a "Torque to Yield" it is vital to get out that torque wrench to make certain proper installation and operation.
Make sure you replace a the bolt or nut when it is recommended by a Car repair manual. The reason being that bolt or nut must be, and has been, torqued to yield. Which means that the fastener is obviously getting stretched to it's proper torque. It also means that after that particular bolt/nut is removed you won't be able to reassemble using that previously torqued bolt and achieve the same required torque that assures both fit and function. Now once we are talking torque, let's consider several other factors. When the car repair manual says to oil the bolt before torquing they're further modifying the manner in which that bolt gets torqued. The friction is reduced from the addition of the oil and this means that more force is currently being applied to the bolt for that set torque value. Now let's think about a dry bolt at the same torque - it's not going to get turned enough to do what the manufacturer meant to do at that torque. What's worse is if there is a bunch of dirt, rust or any contaminants on the threads. So now that there's a bunch of dirt on the threads, you are increasing the friction and ultimately under-torquing your bolt. Do this on a fresh hub bearing assembly and you are likely to have a separated wheel bearing that has an excessive amount of play.
To acquire a better comprehension of the significance of following torquing guidelines let's consider a situation like replacing a gasket that holds oil or coolant - a good example is really a valve cover gasket; the factory wants you to use 10 foot pounds of torque to "most" valve cover gaskets. What are the results in the event that you over-torque? You squish the gasket an excessive amount of and that produces the prospect of oil to escape, this compromises the gasket and the required seal.
Here are a couple of charts to offer a notion of the relative torque values which are typically applied to different sizes of bolts. They're guidelines only and these records has not been verified.
Bolt Assembly Torque (ft-lb)
Values are on the basis of the usage of lubricated threads
bolt size Grade 8.8 Grade 10 Aluminum
M6 5 10 4
M7 9 14 7
M8 17 25 14
M10 33 50 25
M12 60 85 40
M14 90 133 65
M16 140 200 100
M18 200 285 135
The aforementioned chart is for lubricated threads and only provides typical torque values - This chart is not to be followed for almost any torque to yield bolts or nuts and doesn't provide proper torque values for a bolt or nut that is holding a gasket surface. Gaskets are made of different materials and the manual pertaining to the actual application is the only source that needs to be found in determining the proper torque for these gaskets.
Note: size: 10mm doesn't reference the bolt head it refers to the diameter of the shaft. Typical 10mm bolts have a 13mm or 14mm heads.
These chart shows slightly different torque values, and is not based on lubricated threads. M8x1.25 is an 8mm diameter with a 1.25 thread pitch - the lower the number the finer the threads.
Hex head Cap Screw
bolt size Grade 8.8
M4 x 0.7 1.65
M5 x 0.8 4.13
M6 x 1.0 7.1
M7 x 1.0 12.0
M8 x 1.0 18.0
M8 x 1.25 17.0
M10 x 1.0 39.0
M10 x 1.25 36.0
M10 x 1.5 34.0
M12 x 1.25 65.0
M12 x 1.5 63.0
M12 x 1.75 59.0
M14 x 1.5 102.0
M14 x 2 94.0
Anther consideration is that proven fact that torque specification depends on the type of material used - 8.8 grade steel is the most frequent, but metal fasteners are a stronger alternative, whereas, aluminum is a much softer metal and will require a different torque. Check the manufacture's manual for proper torque specs. No chart that is provided in this document has been validated for accuracy. Most factory service manuals will show a torque specification chart simply based off how big is fastener, however this will only be described if the particular torque application is not provided.
After scanning this you must feel a bit more confident and a bit more worried. Continue steadily to research your options and undertake the car repair jobs within your means. Ultimately, it's the experience that is required and some failures could be great learning experience so practice first and take your time.
